The remaining 8%?
Weather, conditions of the
group members and rescue
Expedition Leader &
Expedition Leader &
7summitsclub: New record from Sergey Kofanov: 7 summits in one year
11 February 2009
February 10. Today the Russian famous climber, the youngest Russian climbers on Everest, guide of 7 Summits Club Sergei Kofanov went from Moscow to Argentina. His destination is highest mountain of South America – Aconcagua (not for the first time). But now it is climbing as part of his new project "7 Summits in one year”. He started this project in the summer of 2008. And he already has climbed: Kilimanjaro (for the seventh time), Elbrus (for the fifth time), Carstensz...
PlanetFear: Adventure Talks: Who's There?
10 July 2008
In October 2007, Russian climbers Valery Babanov and Sergey Kofanov made an extremely impressive alpine-style ascent of the West Pillar of Jannu in the Nepal Himalaya. Their out-of-body experience, although remarkable, is not unique in mountaineering circles. The fact that Babanov and Kofanov had only eaten a few muesli bars in the previous three days, and that they'd been on the move for nineteen hours when they reached the glacier (compounding the fatigue of ten consecutive days on the mountain) are the most likely...
Alpinist: Russian Piolet D'Or winners announced
29 November 2007
The oft-criticized French alpinism award, the Piolet D'or, has received yet another blow, this time from the Russians, who, failing to collect the French prize, created their own golden ice axe award, the Russian Piolet D'or. On November 25, in a ceremony held in Moscow, Valery Babanov and Sergey Kofanov's alpine-style climb (VI WI4+ M5, 3000m) on Jannu's Magic Pillar won second place. The sixteen-member siege-style first ascent of K2's West Face Direct (Russian 6b) was awarded the first Russian Piolet D'Or.
Planetmountain: Jannu West Pillar
14 November 2007
On 21/10/2007 Valeri Babanov and Sergey Kofanov carried out what is to be reagarded as one the most important ascents of the year, if not more: the ascent of the hitherto unclimbed west pillar of Jannu (7710m) in pure alpine style. No fixed ropes, no fixed camps, for difficulties in the region of VI/WI4+/80° /M5 along the 3000m line. Translated for the non-initiated this means a route which combines rock, ice and mixed in a sort of university of extremely lightweight mountaineering at altitude. For 43 year old Babanov the ascent into the unknown...
Alpinist: Success and failure on Jannu
22 October 2007
Russian climbers have come in for some criticism recently after their completely sieged ascent of K2's West Face. Reports just in suggest the balance has been addressed with Valeri Babanov's and Sergey Kofanov's eight-day, alpine-style ascent of the northwest ridge of Jannu (7710m). The ridge is a well-known line that was first seriously attempted in the autumn of 1994. A strong French team gained the plateau below the north face and fixed rope on the technically demanding ice wall below the ca. 6300m col that separates...
Climbing: Alpine-style new route on Jannu
21 October 2007
Valery Babanov and Sergey Kofanov have completed the northwest buttress of 7,710-meter Jannu in Nepal in a superb alpine-style ascent. The two men reached the summit on October 21 after eight days of climbing slowed by high winds. The new line, attempted by French teams in 1994 and 1998, climbs Jannu’s north face to a saddle below the northwestern pillar, then climbs the very steep ridgeline to the top. 29-year-old Kofanov, a Russian guide who has made two ascents of Mt. Everest along with hard climbs in the...
Planetmountain: Jannu west ridge climbed by Babanov and Kofanov
20 October 2007
On 21/10/2007 Valeri Babanov and Sergey Kofanov carried out an outstanding ascent of the unclimbed west ridge of Jannu (7710m) in pure alpine style. These are the details of the great ascent: 43 year old Valeri Babanov and 29 year old Sergey Kofanov established base camp at 4700m on 30/09/2007 and they immediately chose their ascent route: a line up the west ridge which had been attempted unsuccessfully by two French expeditions in 1995 and 1998..
Toscoclimb: Jannu (7710m) North Face: in a two-man team & alpine style
3 September 2007
Probably, there in no one from climbing society in Russia who has not heard the name of this Mountain. And I think that I need not go into the all attempts, both successful and failed, to summit it from the North. The Mountain remembers quantities of attempts, but only few and far between of them were successful. The last winners were the members of a large, close-knit Russian team of expedition in spring 2003 working in the last degree managed to open...
Everestnews: Everest 2007: Sergey Kofanov report concerning rescue of Marco Epis
20 July 2007
Approaching to my tent, I have seen in 15 meters above, on a slope, a climber laying just in snow. He was without crampons and harness, his oxygen mask was moved down aside. The man did not answer and made feeble attempts to rise, obviously not understanding where he is and what happened. In his backpack I have found an oxygen cylinder of system « Summit Oxygen», used approximately on two third. I have dragged him on snow to the tent...
Explorersweb: Everest north side: Sergey Kofanov's rescue debrief and video
15 June 2007
Left behind by his climbing mates, Marco Epis reportedly spent over two days deep in the deathzone at 8,300 meters on Everest's north side. His limbs slowly blackening and his brain bloated by lack of oxygen; the Italian climber was spotted lying helpless in the snow by Abramovs 7Summit Club guide Sergey Kofanov. The guide himself was exhausted after breaking trail to the summit only hours before. Still, he stopped by the dying man. While a detailed report is still...
Mountainworld: Everest 2007: Summits, Rescues, and Heroism
22 May 2007
On the Northeast Ridge, Russian climber and guide Sergey Kofanov of the Seven Summits Club organized and helped with the rescue of and Italian climber who had apparently been lying unconscious in the snow for two days at Camp VI at 8300 meters. Amazingly, reports indicate he is now recovering at Rongbuk Basecamp. These are interesting times on Everest, times analogous to the challenges and situations we all find ourselves from time to time on our mountains...
Everest 2007: Alexander Abramov 7 Summits Club Sergey Kofanov reports from base camp
6 April 2007
Today the expedition of Russell Brice has arrived to the Base Camp. His camp stands in the same place where and is usual. But this year a mobile station of cellular communication - in this season cellular telephones work quite confidently and even is accessible EDGE - many expeditions will organize access in internet through it. Today we have taken a walk up to the big camp of the Chinese expedition - the Olympic flag " Peking 2008 " flutters in the centre...
Everestnews: Everest 2006: Lincoln Hall is Alive!
27 May 2006
21 – 25th of May good weather kept on Everest, the wind was very weak. May, 25 in midnight a team of Lincoln Hall (Australia), Thomas Weber (Germany), guide Harry Kikstra (Holland) in support of 5 high-altitude porters has left camp of 8300 m for a summit attempt. The group was well provided with oxygen as about 20 superfluous cylinders were in camp 8300. At 9:00 Lincoln Hall and three Sherpas has reached the top. He went in good rate and has joyfully informed about his success on a portable radio set...